Chapter 12
12. Bergen
During the autumn
semester, I was going to teach a couple of courses in economics, as a lecturer.
At the same time, I was looking to do something else, but preferably stay in
Sweden. One day I saw an announcement on the department's bulletin board,
looking for an economist at the Christian Michelsen Institute (CMI) for Oil
Economics in Bergen. The salary was two times higher compared to the lecturer
position and Bergen was a beautiful city that I had visited several years
earlier. I applied right away and a month later I was offered the position that
would start in January 1987. I accepted the position immediately and we agreed
that I would go there later in November to meet them and be informed of all the
necessary things.
No to post-doc in the US
At the same time
as I accepted the position in Bergen, Bengt-Christer asked if I was interested
in a post-doc position either at Harvard, or Stanford. It was Dale Jørgensen, a
professor at Harvard, who was the opponent of Jonas Agell's doctoral thesis in
May, who asked if I was interested in a position there. Jonas had already
accepted one of the two offered positions. It would be a couple of years in the
US for research. But after my trip to the US, I had decided to "never again in the US", and I
answered bluntly, without thinking, "no,
but thank you for the offer".
He was a bit
shocked and asked why and if I had any better options. Then I replied that I
did not want to leave the Nordic countries for the United States, even though
it was a flattering offer and I preferred Bergen, where I had just been given a
position there. He laughed out loud and
wondered if I had gone crazy. How could I turn down the well-known universities
in the United States and move to rainy Bergen? He also said that it was a bit
embarrassing to turn down an American professor's offer and that we don't get such
generous post-docs from there.
I didn't want to
tell him why I preferred the rain of Bergen to the arrogance of the United
States. The conversation led nowhere and I think Bengt-Christer never
understood my decision. I don't know what he said to Dale Jørgensen. A few years later, he fell ill and died,
and I wonder what Jørgensen thought when a Greek bullied a post-doc in the
United States to move to Bergen.
Incidentally,
when it comes to the generosity of the Americans towards new Swedish doctors, I
have always been very skeptical about. Many prominent American economists love
to come to Sweden to make more contacts with all the Swedish professors who sit
on the Nobel Committee and thus increase the likelihood that they themselves
will receive the Nobel Prize. Many who had received the Nobel Prize had been to
Sweden before, as visiting professors. I do not know if the purpose of Dale Jørgensen's
frequent visits to Sweden was to increase the chances of receiving the Nobel
Prize. At the same time, he was one of the best economists at then and many
tipped him as a strong candidate for the prize, which he did not get.
At the end of
November, I went to Bergen to meet with the management at CMI. They received me
with joy and they planned what I would do, where I would live and all the other
practical things. I had a Swedish, but temporary residence permit and it was
also valid for Norway. The weather in Bergen was gray and rainy, which they
pointed out in case I didn't know. We agreed on the salary and that I would
start after the Christmas holidays in January. It was a permanent employment
that was to be renewed automatically after a trial period of six months.
After a day
there, I went back to Uppsala to plan my move to Bergen. I left the apartment
and moved my furniture to my girlfriend's sister's basement. I also left my
Saab with them because it would be difficult to go by car to Bergen in Winter.
At that time, you had to drive up to the mountains and down to the valley
because the long tunnel that exists today was not built. My girlfriend was
about to finish her studies in Uppsala and she stayed. We celebrated Christmas
together with her parents in Dalarna. By the way, her father had just won SEK
1.8 million on Lotto, but my girlfriend hardly got any money. She continued to
work part-time to complete her studies. I felt a little sorry for her and I
appreciated my poor father even more for what he did for me.
The move and life in Bergen
At the beginning
of January, I took the flight from Arlanda to Bergen, via Oslo. When I left
Arlanda early in the morning it was -12 degrees and when we arrived in Oslo it
was -16. But when we landed in Bergen, just before lunch, it was +1, with thick
clouds, some fog and drizzle and it felt significantly colder. I took a taxi to
CMI where they were waiting for me. They showed me around, my office,
introduced my colleagues and offered some light lunch that they served at CMI's
cafeteria. Then we went to the bank to fix an account and to the villa where I
was going to live.
It was a two-floor
house on a hill, close to Haukeland Hospital. The villa was owned by a CMI
director who had moved to Canada to work in an oil institute for a couple of
years. It was very large, furnished and quite old. According to an agreement
CMI had with the owner, I was to pay a low rent, and of course take care of the
house. Then they showed me the bus stop and we went to a grocery store to buy
some food. In the evening, they left me and we were supposed to meet the next
day at CMI. I first ate some dinner and then watched TV. There were only two Norwegian
channels and after an hour or so I went to bed. The bedroom was upstairs and
when I went to sleep, I noticed that the fog was so low and dense. The street
and outdoor lighting on the villas nearby was barely visible.
The next day I
took the bus to CMI. It was much darker than it was in Uppsala at 8 o'clock in
the morning, partly because it was cloudy and rainy, partly because Bergen is
about 1000 kilometers west of Uppsala and we have the same time zone. The roads
in Bergen are narrow and crooked and the bus drove quite slowly.
I got off near
CMI and then I walked the long uphill towards the headquarters. Outside my room
were three scientists, an Italian, a Frenchman, and an Israeli, whom I had not
met before. They introduced themselves and after a while they asked me if lunch
is served at workplaces in Sweden! I was really surprised by their question and
replied: "of course". The
Israeli then turned to everyone else and said, " You see, that's what you do in civilized countries!"
Immediately after, they asked me to accompany them to the HR manager to inform
him that we do have lunch at the workplaces in Sweden.
We went up to
him, whom I had met the day before, and then the Italian said that I should
tell him about the lunch in Sweden. The personnel manager, who had received the
same complaint several times before, turned to him and said in a loud voice:
"I repeat what I have said before.
We're not going to have lunch and siesta in Norway, period. Here you eat a
small light lunch, such as sandwiches and yogurt, which is available in the
cafeteria. You'll be fine until you have an early dinner after work." They
shook their heads and were sad, of course. We left and one of them wondered how
I could leave the civilized Sweden and move to Bergen.
I didn't think
lunch was that important and it went well with sandwiches and yogurt that the
cafeteria served, but after a couple of weeks I got tired of the one-sided
lunch. In conversations with people at CMI, I learned that Bergen, unlike Oslo,
adhered to traditions and did not serve lunch, neither at workplaces nor at
restaurants out in the city. The restaurants, on the other hand, started with
dinner at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, until 9 in the evening! I experienced it
once when I went to a restaurant near my residence after 8 in the evening. The
dishes were almost sold out and they were supposed to close at 9.30. All Bergen
residents were home that late, or no one would order dinner that late.
A few weeks
later, I noticed that many people brought sandwiches or other packed lunches
from home, especially when we had lunch seminars a couple of times a week. I
remember one day during a lunch seminar, a senior Statoil manager came to
present us with a new project. He took out his sandwich package from his Helly
Hansen rain jacket and started eating while he presented the project. On the
other side of the table sat the Israeli and the Frenchman who chuckled and
shook their heads when they saw this scene. Afterwards, the Frenchman came to
my room and asked how it felt when a high-ranking Statoil manager did that. Of
course, he believed that such things only happen in Norway and never in France.
In my position,
my colleagues and I would analyze and evaluate various strategic oil projects,
for the Norwegian Petroleum Directorate, or oil companies like Hydro and
Statoil. The head of the research unit was a Swedish mathematics professor from
Linköping University of Technology, who had left Sweden a few years earlier.
The head of the unit was a Dane. In addition to economists, there were also
optimizers and programmers, and most of them were Norwegians and doctors.
Depending on the project and participation, we switched between Norwegian and
English. When I wrote in Swedish, with my Norwegian keyboard, it felt a bit
strange, but the friendly secretary corrected all Swedish words into Norwegian.
Life in Bergen
continued in the same dull way. Take the bus to CMI, work until four or five,
buy food from groceries and return home to make a dinner. Sometimes I went out
in the rain or snow. It was a little brighter in the afternoons there compared
to Sweden, but late in the evening there were hardly any people outside. One
Saturday in February, I took the Fløibanen funicular to get some impressions of
the fantastic view of Bergen. Unfortunately, visibility was poor then, almost
everything was covered by the fog. I waited until April to experience this
wonderful view. But I was fascinated by the fish market where customers bought
live salmon swimming in a pool and the fishmonger caught for them.
Meeting the Greeks
Another cold and
humid Saturday, I went to a cafeteria in the city center to drink a coffee and,
of course, to warm up. When I went to sit down, I heard laughter and loud
noises in Greek. Be funny, Greeks in Bergen, I thought. I asked them in Greek
if they lived there. They were surprised that there was another Greek there.
Then I sat with them and we started talking.
One of them,
Vasilis, had lived there for a long time, was a programmer, married to a Norwegian
and had a child. The other two, Takis and Irini, were dentists, and made a
certain specialty in pediatric dentistry, which it was considered among the
best in Europe at the time. I thought it was nice to hang out with other
compatriots there. Takis and Irini also thought it was good that I knew Swedish
to maybe help them if needed, even though the Bergen dialect has a very harsh
sound. Since that day we became good friends and hung out almost every day. I
found out that there was another Greek girl who was married to a Norwegian and
lived just outside Bergen who they also hung out with. There were also a few
more Greeks on the west coast, in Stavanger, Haugesund and Trondheim.
The
snow-white ski suit
It was still
winter and you could buy nice winter jackets on sale. Takis told me that his
sister in Athens wanted a snow-white ski overall. He asked me if I had time on
Saturday to accompany him to the stores and help him with the purchase. And I
had plenty of time. First, we went to a big store in town without finding
snow-white overalls. There were plenty of overalls in wonderful colors instead.
We moved on to the next store, which was a little smaller. Same thing there.
Elegant overalls but no snow-white. I then told Takis that it must be difficult
with a snow-white overall, as it is not visible on the slopes or in avalanches
and may not be made in snow-white.
While we were
looking, a salesman came and asked us if he could help. I explained to him what
Takis' sister wanted. He immediately replied that they did not have white and
that it was difficult to find in Norway due to visibility aspects and wondered
why she wanted snow-white. I turned to Takis and asked him in Greek why his
sister wanted a snow- white. Takis then told us a long story, while the
salesman stared at us. After a couple of minutes, I turned to the salesman and
said that she wasn't really going to ski, she just wanted to wear it this
winter in Athens. The salesman shook his head and we left.
The story that
Takis talked about his sister was actually interesting. Back then, in Athens'
most elegant and luxurious Kolonaki Square, the wealthy young people used to
park their expensive cars with ski equipment on the roof, while they themselves
sat in cafes dressed in their beautiful overalls, as if heading to the ski mountains
outside Athens. They could sit there for hours, especially on weekends, without
going to the ski resorts at all. Some could barely ski. They simply wanted to
impress everyone else in the square. And while all the other friends of his
sister wore overalls in different colors, no one had snow-white! It was just as
well that I didn't tell the whole truth to the salesperson! He would think that
not only was his sister really spoiled, but we were also crazy as we walked
around in the raining Bergen looking for a snow-white overall to be worn in a
cafeteria in Athens.
Life in
Svalbard
Takis and Irini
worked in the same department with Åse, a dental nurse. All three also
socialized privately. When Åse had her birthday, she invited a few people to
her home, but also me, since I had met her a few weeks earlier. She lived quite
close to the Fløibanen funicular with a nice view of the sea.
It was a nice
event at Åse's home, with Norwegian food, dancing, and funny stories. In the
evening, Åse told us that last summer she had gone on holiday in Svalbard and
what she experienced there was outstanding. Before she went there, she had to
fill out a few forms, preferably she would have a firearms license, maybe bring
extra canned goods and crispbread, inform the authorities where and for how
long she would be staying, and so on.
Since neither
Takis nor Irini understood Norwegian, Åse spoke English. When Irini asked why you
should have a gun license, Åse replied to rent a rifle in case you met a bear
while walking around alone. She pointed out that in Svalbard, it is the bears
that are free, while people walk on fenced streets and roads instead. When
Takis asked her why you should have canned goods and crispbread with you, Åse
replied that you can get lost in the snow and it was just as well to have some
extra food, and maybe even feed the bears! Svalbard is quite restrictive
against mass tourism and people who go there must accept certain restrictions,
said Åse. And then she ended by saying "people
over there live like that ".
Takis looked at
her intently and said that "live" was a wrong verb to use. Åse
protested, she turned to me and said in Norwegian "I mean live, not leave", so that I would translate in Greek to
Takis, in case he thought she used the verb "leave". I translated it
to Takis and he just smiled. He turned to her again and said a little
ironically: "I understand, but you
should use survive instead, not live". Åse turned a little sad, but
Takis continued, with everything Åse told us about Svalbard, it was a question
of survival and not of life. And if Åse wants to see what life is like, she can
come with him to Athens to experience it!
Åse got very angry
with him and it was the first time I heard an angry woman swear in Norwegian.
Takis apologized, but he still thought he was right, something that Åse
reluctantly accepted. She then insisted that he and many Greeks should go to
Svalbard instead if they wanted to understand and learn from nature and not
trying to find a snow-white overall to wear it in a cafeteria in Athens! Then
she showed some beautiful pictures from Svalbard and the atmosphere became much
nicer.
Easter in Bergen
In the beginning
of April, I flew to Uppsala to pick up my car. I changed to summer tires and
drove back to Bergen during Easter week and my girlfriend came along. It was a
fantastic journey. We spent the night northwest of Oslo and the next day we
drove to Bergen. At Eide fjord we took a ferry across the other side of
Hardagen fjord. It was a magnificent and nasty nature with thundering
waterfalls from very high cliffs quite close to the narrow and crooked roads we
drove. It was cold but sunny and when we found some small parking spaces, we
stopped to admire the rugged nature and take some pictures.
When we got home,
I called Takis and Irini to meet the next day. Unfortunately, everything was
closed that day, because it was Maundy Thursday. Norwegians usually go skiing
during Easter week and the big holiday starts on Maundy Thursday. We bought
some food at a Hydro gas station and had dinner with us.
On Good Friday we
went up to the mountains to hike on the ice. After an hour or so we finally
found a small cafeteria for a coffee break. Early in the afternoon, the weather
changed quickly and it started snowing. We got a little worried and we decided
to go down to Bergen before the roads got covered in the snow and the
visibility became too poor. I had just switched to summer tires and was not a
good idea.
We celebrated
Easter at our house and Vasili's family also joined us. It was alternate break
and rain, but not so cold and we even had time to grill some meat and sausages
out in the yard, before it started to rain again.
The weather
continued to be rainy and it became brighter and warmer. I remember when Prime
Minister Gro Harlem Brundtland was to give her May Day speech in Bergen, it was
delayed by three hours because of the dense fog. Since the plane couldn't land,
it returned to Stavanger and she took the helicopter instead! The Flesland
airport in Bergen is located next to the fjord with some mountains nearby and
it can be quite difficult to land. Gro began her speech by apologizing for the
delay and it was wrong to be optimistic about Bergen's weather.
Lawn
At the beginning
of May, I went with some colleagues to a three-day conference in Karlstad. At
the same time, I asked for a two-day vacation and took the opportunity to meet
my girlfriend in Uppsala.
A week later, I
took the last flight from Arlanda, via Oslo, to Bergen. I had left the car to
Takis who came to the airport to pick me up. It was scary when we landed
because it was very foggy with light rain. I drove Takis home first and then I
continued towards the villa.
When I arrived,
it was dark, but I noticed that the lawn had grown a lot. Half of the villa was
covered in the fog. Just as I was about to open the door, I saw two wet papers
hanging. I came in and read what was written. It was the neighbor who wondered
why I didn't mow the lawn. I didn't care and went to bed.
The next day I
drove to CMI. On my desk was a small note saying that I had to contact the
secretary. I went to her and she told me that the neighbor had complained
because the lawn had grown. I thought it was ridiculous but I promised that I
would cut it after work. Honestly, before I went to Sweden there was hardly any
grass to cut. But because of the light and humidity, the grass grew
significantly in a week!
When I drove
home, I saw the neighbor mowing his own lawn in the rain. Even though I tried
to hide behind the bushes, he noticed my car and came with firm steps towards
me. He was quite angry and wondered why I ignored his notes. I explained that I
was abroad and I will do so as soon as the rain stops. Then he got very angry
and yelled at me: "If you wait for
the rain to stop in Bergen, the grass will come up to the roof! I also got
annoyed and asked him why he cared about another villa's lawn. He replied that
the homeowner had told him to check that the villa was taken care of and since
they were going to celebrate the National day on May 17 in a week or so,
everything had to be neat and tidy!
I went inside,
put on the owner's Helly Hansen rain jacket, and went outside to mow the lawn.
It didn't work, it was so wet and everything got stuck in the lawn mower. In
addition, I slipped because the lawn was on a sloping level. After a few
attempts, I gave up and went back into the house. He knocked on the door again
and said that I had to continue, otherwise it would get even worse. But I was
tired and angry and replied that I will talk to CMI tomorrow and not be able to
take any more of his complaints.
The next day I
told the secretary that it was not possible and that I wanted to move to
another residence. She was kind and arranged a small tractor lawn machine and
they mowed the lawn. But in the future, I would make sure not to let the grass
grow, or wait for the rain to stop! And there I learned to mow the lawn despite
the eternal rain!
May 17th
May 17, 1987 was
on a Sunday. Already on Saturday, the weather turned to high pressure. Suddenly
you could see the blue sky, the magnificent greenery, and the beautiful flowers
all around. All the villas had hoisted the Norwegian flag and everything was so
festive. My colleagues at CMI warned me not to go with my Swedish Saab to town
on May 17. On the one hand, it would be impossible to find parking and on the
other hand, there was a risk that a Swedish-registered car could be vandalized
on this day. So, I took the bus instead and met Takis and Irini near the
square.
In the city,
several thousand people had probably gathered to celebrate the National day.
School and high school students as well as university students were to
participate in a parade. Everyone had their own little flag that was waved with
joy and everyone was so happy and proud. I have never seen so many Norwegian
flags in the same place. The dark blue sky, the brown-green water, and the
colorful houses at Bryggen, the fine villas up by the flute that looked like
they had grown between the trees and the Norwegian colors made for an
incredibly beautiful interior. All photographers must wait for such sunny days
to photograph Bergen, I thought.
If I remember
correctly, it hadn't been sunny for a whole day since January. We had had a few
hours of sunshine for a few days, of course, but often combined with fog or
drizzle. Irini thought it was so sad that the wonderful beauty of the city is
hidden by fog and low pressure. And we all agreed that the weather in Bergen
must have had a major impact on both Henri Ibsen's writing and Edward Grieg's
musical works.
On Monday, the
rain started again. A nice and quite funny colleague from Oslo came to my room
and asked me what I thought of May 17 and about the weather. I said that
everything was wonderful of course. And then he replied "the weather gods were with us yesterday, but
now Bergen has used up the quota of sunshine-hours this year and from today the
rain will return. I wondered if he was joking, but he was referring to the
local newspaper "Bergens Tidende" where you could see the whole
weather statistics on a whole page.
I went to the
conference room and checked the newspaper. I was quite depressed by what I
read. Over the past five years, the number of rainy days was 260, compared to
this year's 256. This year's precipitation was 2325 mm compared to the average
for the last five years which was 2340 mm. In other words it will have to rain
even more to reach the five-year average!
If I remember
correctly, there were a few sunny days in May but the rain continued until
mid-June and after a short break for a couple of weeks, the rainy season came
back with some short breaks until mid-August.
Some rain stories
There are plenty
of funny stories about the rain in Bergen. I will only choose two that clearly
illustrate what the rain means in Bergen.
The old actor
Kirk Douglas once went on holiday to Bergen, many years after he starred in the
classic film "The Heroes of Telemark". He waited a few hours in the
hotel reception for the rain to stop and go out into town. But since the rain
continued all the time, he walked up to the young receptionist. He told him
that 25 years ago they were going to film some sunny scenes in Bergen and waited
in vain for the rain to stop. And after a few days of hollow rain, they were
forced to move to the United States and film these scenes in a studio. When he
finished the story, he asked the guy "Does
it always rain in Bergen?” And then the guy replied: "I wasn't born 25 years ago!"
Another shorter
story is about the Norwegian school students when they had a geography test. On
one of the questions, they would find the error on Norway's map, where the sun
only shone over Bergen while it rained over the rest of the country. Only school
children from Bergen were 100% right! I like
this story and every time the Swedish TV shows the weather map of the Nordic
countries, my eyes get stuck over Bergen where a permanent rain cloud must have
been programmed!
Last weeks in Bergen
At the beginning
of July, it was not only rainy, but also around 10 degrees. Vasilis with his
family, Takis and Irini, had gone on holiday to Greece. I could not go there
because of the military service issues. Of course, it felt very sad and
hopeless. What to do in such a city in the middle of summer when it rains?
On weekends, I
often went to town and visited different museums and art galleries, or just
walked around with my umbrella to meet some people and feel like I was alive.
The funniest thing was when I went to the Grieg Hall and listened to Sissel
Kyrkjebö, the young star from Bergen, who sang some beautiful songs.
Out on the quay
there were often some American warships, and there I met some brave tourists
with rain gear and umbrellas who walked up the Flöjbanan, or waited to take the
Hurtigruten to the North Calotte. Vasilis had recommended Hurtigruten, but I
didn't dare to pay for an expensive trip as there was an obvious risk of rain
and fog and also miss the midnight sun.
According to the
contract, if I do not resign by mid-June, I must continue with my position. But
I couldn't take it anymore with 10 degrees and the eternal rain in the middle
of summer. So, one day, I decided to quit at any time and communicated my
decision to the manager.
Of course, he
tried to persuade me and since he was soon going on vacation, he asked me to be
patient and we could discuss it again in early August. I couldn't wait and I
wanted to stop in August, before the autumn rains would start.
He thought it was
very sad because they were very happy with my work and finally, they had
learned my long family name. He asked if it was about a higher salary and
promised that he would raise it after the summer. I just said that I felt bad,
mainly because of the rain and because of the lack of lunch at CMI, even though
Bergen is the most beautiful city I've seen in my life. He replied that they
had warned me about the rain, but I didn't care then, which is true. "But I expected rain two or three days a
week, and not every day, for months" I told him.
Furthermore, I
said that I would move back to Uppsala for the autumn semester, even though I
did not have a permanent position there and the hourly wage at the university
was significantly worse. In addition, my girlfriend expected me to move there.
Since she was a mathematician, he promised to offer her a position at CMI as
well. I knew she didn't want to because she had to put up with so much rain
when she was here during Easter. He didn't manage to persuade me and we agreed
that I would leave CMI in mid-August, after his vacation.
Ironically,
the day I moved was the warmest and sunniest day I've experienced on the West
Coast! It felt a bit melancholy when I packed my belongings in the car. On the
other hand, it was so incredibly beautiful when I drove along the scary road at
Hardagenvida. I spent the night in Geilo and the next day I returned to
Uppsala.
